1. 'Mighty Aphrodite', Kate Moss by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, 2011 2. 'Gold Kate', Kate Moss by Nick Knight, 2000 3.'Stone Age', Lara Stone, by Mario Testino, 2009 4. 'Vogue Constellation' by Eduardo Benito, 1926 5. Twiggy by Ronald Traeger, 1967 6. 'Vogue Deco' by Eduardo Benito, 1926 7. 'Deauville Rendezvous' by Mario Testino, 2012
1. Cover illustration by Georges Lepape, 1929 2. Cover illustration by Alex Zeilinger, 1933 3. Cover illustration by Irving Penn, 1946 4. Cover photograph of Jean Patchett by Irving Penn, 1950 5.Cover illustration by Carl Erickson, 1935 6. Diamond Jubilee issue, cover design by Terry Jones
1. 'India' by Norman Parkinson, 1956 2. The Beatles by Peter Laurie, 1964 3. Lady Elizabeth Paget as 'The Lady of Shalott' by Cecil Beaton, 1936 4. 'Space Between Sea and Sun' by Norman Parkinson, 1973 5. Lady Diana Cooper by Hugh Cecil, 1923
WHAT
Exhibition celebrating 100 years of cutting-edge fashion, beauty and portrait photography by British Vogue.
WHY
Decade by decade, the exhibition explores British Vogue’s unfaltering position at the forefront of new fashion, its dedication to the best in design, and its influence on the UK’s wider cultural stage during some of the most inventive and exciting periods in style, taste, the arts and society. Exquisite vintage prints from the early twentieth century, ground-breaking photographs from renowned fashion shoots, unpublished work and original magazines have been brought together in the first retrospective survey of the celebrated magazine.
"Vogue 100: A Century of Style is a landmark exhibition in the history of magazine photography. I am incredibly proud of this collection of exceptional photography and of the whole concept of the exhibition, which shows the breadth and depth of the work commissioned by the magazine as well as Vogue's involvement in the creation of that work. The National Portrait Gallery is a wonderful place for this show, which mixes portraiture and contemporaneous artistic style in the same way as much of the Gallery's own collection. Anybody interested in photography, fashion, fame and magazines will find this an unmissable experience." Alexandra Shulman, Editor in Chief of British Vogue.
WHERE
National Portrait Gallery, London
WHEN
Now until 22 May 2016
LONDON FASHION WEEK AW16
WHO
Xiao Li.
Pushing the boundaries between knitwear and silicone, Xiao Li is best known for her witty commentary on the current fashion system, using colourful, voluminous shapes, and innovative yarns and textures.
WHO
Amanda Wakeley.
Best known for her glamorous evening and cocktail dresses and accessories, and for her “clean glam” signature style.
WHO
Mother of Pearl.
Since taking over as Creative Director in 2011, Amy Powney has streamlined the Mother of Pearl aesthetic to ensure the silhouettes and detailing stay true to the sports luxe philosophy with which the label is synonymous.
WHO
Taka Naka
Designed by georgian-born identical twins, Tamara and Natasha Surguladze. Their colorful and playful collections never disappoint.
WHO
Marques Almeida.
Cutting their teeth at Vivienne Westwood and Preen respectively, Marques and Almeida took the natural course of combining talents while on the MA at Central Saint Martins – hitting the mark between impulse and consideration.
LONDON FASHION WEEK AW16 COVERAGE
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WHAT
Discover all my highlights from London Fashion Week on the LFW The Daily (London Fashion Week’s official newspaper) instagram here: https://www.instagram.com/lfwthedaily/
J&M DAVIDSON - MAYFAIR
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WHAT
J&M Davidson’s new Mount Street, Mayfair store. The stunning boutique is part of a Grade II listed building and was designed by the award-winning Universal Design Studio. It marks the brand’s third stand-alone location, joining stores in Notting Hill in London and Aoyama in Tokyo.
The clean lines of the new store’s interior and calming neutral tones of dusty taupes and soft pinks, set the tone for the perfect shopping experience. This experience is enhanced by artist Rebecca Louise Law’s bespoke floral art installation (pictured above), made up of a delicate carpet of gypsophilas interlaced with intricately arranged dried flowers.
WHO
British-French founders, John and Monique Davidson started J&M Davidson thirty years ago and the brand has since acquired a global reputation for creating the most unique and upmost quality range of handbags, accessories, small leather goods and ready to wear collections. J&M Davidson has a cult following of those with an eye for design and true style.
WHAT J&M SAY
“We are overwhelmed to be returning to the place where it all began for us decades ago. Many don’t realise we actually used to create pieces in Mayfair above the Medici Gallery in the eighties. We fell in love with this building as soon as we saw it – its charm seemed to mirror what we try to create in our pieces so it’s a natural home for us to be”, John Davidson.
WHERE
J&M Davidson, 104 Mount Street, W1.
www.jandmdavidson.com
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN’S HAWAII KAWAI COLLECTION
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WHAT
To capture the warmth, fantasy, and spirit of 1950’s Hawaii, Christian Louboutin designed the ‘Hawaii Kawai’ print – a vibrant design full of bright flora and fauna for spring 2016.
WHAT ELSE
Christian Louboutin put on a spectacular event to launch the collection at the Barbican Centre’s Conservatory/Garden Room (pictured above). Guests were handed a beautifully illustrated map (pictured above) on arrival to guide them through a tropical trail complete with steel band, fresh coconuts, and hand-made flower garlands. #AlohaLouboutin
LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN AW16
WHO
Gieves & Hawkes
WHAT
Gieves & Hawkes AW16.
In this invigorating new collection established codes have been reinforced with a youthful edge, clean fresh styling and updated proportions.
The collection reflects a modern British gentleman’s lifestyle –casual clothes made for country house parties and for exploring the streets of a foreign city, requiring the same level of refinement and luxury but in a cosy, comfortable and considered manner.
Stand-out pieces (pictured above) include:
British-woven camel cloth double-breasted overcoat, cut with versatility in mind to be worn either with a shirt and knit, or a chunky polo neck.
Foliate country jacquard in bronze that comes in a relaxed double-breasted jacket.
Piercing royal blue velvet jacket.
Exploded houndstooth double-breasted jacket.
Large Prince of Wales checked jacket.
WHO
Private White V.C.
WHAT
‘The Mayfair Collection’ AW16. Characterised by iconic designs, and luxurious fabrics with innovative, highly technical finishes. The collection also encompasses Private White V.C.’s commitment to top quality British manufacturing. ‘We start with the finest raw fibers, weave them, make them, and sell them in our own shops. Everything is made in Britain, we are a sheep to shop brand.’ – Creative Director, Nick Ashley.
The functional fabrics used include the exclusive fabric, Ventile®, the world’s finest 100% cotton, originally developed in Manchester in the 1930s to prolong the survival rates of Allied Forces during the Second World War.
Stand out wardrobe heroes (pictured above) include:
Cream 100% Cashmere Roll Neck
Navy Pilots Bomber
Ivory Brushed Cotton Chino
Navy Cottonopolis DB Trench
Black Sheepskin Manchester Pea Coat
WHAT ELSE
Private White V.C. pays homage to its namesake WWI hero; Private Jack White. The clothing line has a subtle nod to Jack’s military legacy, with many items based on classic wartime pieces, updated with added functionality and detail for the modern man. All clothing is expertly constructed by hand in the Private White V.C. Factory.
WHO
Nigel Cabourn
WHAT
The AW16 ‘Authentic’ and ‘Lybro’ collections.
The ‘Authentic’ collection features heritage fabrics such as Harris Tweed, Ventile®, wools and oilcloths, with an attractive colour story of Army Green, Black Navy, Vintage Orange, Charcoal and Royal Air Force Blue. Stand out pieces include a dry wax finished ‘Hybrid’ Harris Tweed, specially developed by Cabourn in collaboration with waxed fabric specialists, Halley Stevenson. The Chuck Taylor boot is another innovative highlight. A Converse collaboration, Cabourn uses two colours of Ventile on the top with vintage orange inside, inspired by the design of Cabourn’s Cameraman Jacket and Vest.
The ‘Lybro’ collection is based on classic British work wear worn in ammunition factories in both World Wars and by workers at this time such as postmen and railwaymen. Cabourn has introduced a British industrial oilcloth to this line, which he has developed in an ‘old vintage orange’ inspired from a 1930s oil cloth duster coat.
Other impressive fabrics include a work wear basic wool, which is rough and hardwearing and a hydrant work wear blue denim worn traditionally by rail and factory workers. Stand out looks include a traditional style boiler suit and an oilcloth cap.
“It’s been a long held ambition of mine to develop a collection, which is all about celebrating work wear and doing it by breathing new life into this famous British work wear label fits perfectly with my passion for heritage and history. I hope that this collection, which has all the Cabourn DNA but is accessible at a different price point to Authentic, will appeal to a new, younger customer.” Nigel Cabourn.
WHO
CMMN SWDN
WHAT
The AW16 ‘Domus’ collection is based on looking at clothes as an extension of the home; warm, inviting and carefree. Emma Hedlund said of her's and Saif Bakir's collection ‘We thought of our own homes growing up and what felt familiar about them – but we also remembered all those elements and interiors that we hated and disliked but now think fondly of.’
The collection has striking references to the 70s/early 80s through the use of domestic textiles and retro graphics associated with the period. Bakir and Hedlund successfully contrast these past influences with a focus on modern fits, contemporary details and technical fabrics.
AUTHENTIC COUNTRY STYLE
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WHO
A Hume is a country retailer that offers some of the finest handpicked local, national and global brands in country lifestyle, including their own label A Hume, which consists of an impressive range of tweed.
Opening in 1929, A Hume began as a gentleman’s made-to-measure outfitters in Kelso, a market town in the Scottish Borders. 85 years/three Hume generations later and with a thriving e-commerce site, A Hume now has a strong loyal local customer base as well as a vast international one who seek the traditional British ‘look’.
WHY
Archie Hume perfectly articulates why country style is so relevant in fashion: "Country style is both universal and timeless. Cherished by all generations, this style can be worn in the country or in the city, on the riverbank or to the office. Country wear effortlessly combines utility and comfort".
A Hume have become specialists in country style. Their Kelso home in the Scottish Borders (an area renowned for its textiles and cashmere) means it is uniquely positioned to source the finest cloths and yarns. A Hume’s luxurious range of tweeds hold testament to this. Their tweed collection is manufactured by heritage brand Bladen using exclusive tweed designed by Archie Hume from the Lovat Mill in Hawick, Scotland. Archie explains the appeal of this versatile cloth "thanks to the experimentation with different colours, weaves and weights, you can be as casual, smart or as individual as you want to be."
WHAT ELSE
In 2014 A Hume won two Drapers Independents Awards, Independent Retailer of the Year and Best Independent Multi-Channel Operator which is unheard of for a traditional country brand. A Hume were also short-listed in the Drapers Digital Awards 2015 for Best Multichannel Retailer – under £10 million turnover, and Best Multi-Channel Operator and Lifestyle Independent of the Year, in the Drapers Independent Retailer Awards 2015.
DRESS AS BOND, JAMES BOND
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WHAT
In the latest Bond film, Spectre, the stylish James Bond wears British modern heritage brand N.Peal. In the film’s poster above, Daniel Craig wears N.Peal’s charcoal Mock Turtle Neck sweater.
The sweater is crafted from a blend of Cashmere and Silk worsted yarn, which means it is lightweight and perfect for Secret Agent action.
In Spectre Bond also wears N.Peal’s light grey Cable Knit Rollneck crafted from 100% cashmere and is joined by Bond girls wearing a selection of N.Peal womenswear.
N.Peal also dressed Bond in the last film, Skyfall. He wore N.Peal's Blue Wave Oxford Round Neck sweater in the final action sequences.
WHO
Established in 1936, N.Peal are THE quintessential British Cashmere brand. They are also the only cashmere specialists with a dedicated men's collection.
With regards to the recent Bond collaboration, Adam Holdsworth, Managing Director at N.Peal says, "We feel incredibly honoured to have designed and produced cashmere sweaters for the character James Bond. He is an iconic character and a British institution – I cannot think of a better association for a modern heritage brand like N.Peal."
WHERE
N.Peal's flagship store is located in Burlington Archade (37–40 Burlington Arcade, Mayfair,
London W1J 0QD) . There are three floors with impressive Art Deco inspired interiors. Other N.Peal stores are located in Sloane Street, Knightsbridge and Piccadilly.
LOUIS VUITTON ‘‘SERIES 3’’ EXHIBITION
LOUIS VUITTON ‘‘SERIES 3’’ EXHIBITION OPENING
Cara Delevingne
Jean Campbell
Michelle Williams
Poppy Delevingne, Cara Delevingne, Lily Donaldson
Clemence Poesy
Lily Donaldson
Lily Donaldson, Poppy Delevingne
Douglas Booth
Nicolas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton's Artistic Director
WHAT
The Louis Vuitton fashion exhibition. An immersive experience that showcases the past, present and future of the Louis Vuitton brand. The exhibition also gives a unique insight into the creative process of Louis Vuitton’s Women’s Artistic Director Nicolas Ghesquière. The London exhibition is the third, in a series of exhibitions that have already travelled the world to multiple destinations including Tokyo, Shanghai, Los Angeles, Seoul and Rome.
WHEN
21 September-18 October 2015
WHERE
London, 180 Strand, WC2
LONDON FASHION WEEK SS16
WHO
From top to bottom: Anya Hindmarch, Roberta Einer, Alexander Lewis, Toga
ANNA VP SOCIAL MEDIA TAKEOVER
Fashion commentator and broadcaster Caryn Franklin MBE reporting for The Daily.
Visit from Bip Ling
Handbag selfie
Guest illustrator Frida Wannerberger
The Daily Newsroom
Tanya Ling illustration
Visit from Alice Casely-Hayford
Guest Illustrator Tanya Ling
Visit from Susie Bubble
Stylist Martha Ward's first look at her feature in The Daily
Anna VP
Guest illustrator Will Broome
WHAT
I took over the social media streams of London Fashion Week’s official newspaper The Daily to deliver audiences an access-all-areas front row experience, backstage exclusives and all the live action from newsroom hub.
WHO
The Daily is the voice of London Fashion week. The team of reporters include the top fashion journalists in the industry and their words reachan influential opinion-forming readership, made up of leading international fashion editors, journalists, publishers, creatives and stylists as well as hundreds of thousands of fashion enthusiasts.
PRADA AW15 HAS ARRIVED
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WHAT
The greatly anticipated Autumn/Winter 2015 Prada collection has arrived in stores. I was fortunate enough to be shown the collection at the UK flagship store on Old Bond Street.
Miuccia Prada has done it again and created a strong and stunning collection with themes of fantasy and reality, subversions and dissectible references. Buying a piece from this collection is like investing in ground breaking art, the items will only go up in value and down in (fashion) history.
- One unisex size. Suitable for men who wear a size Small/Medium and women of UK size 4, 6, 8 and 10.
- Ultra-soft premium cotton. Cotton weight: 204 GSM.
- Also available in White. Contact Anna VP to request.
NEW 'FARFETCH CURATES: DESIGN' BOOK
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WHAT
Farfetch, the pioneers of online fashion curation, have turned their trained eye to the world of design and produced an inviting coffee table book presenting the 2015 who, what, where trends in the field of global design. This book has the perfect ratio of imagery vs text and includes new design-focused hotels in Chicago, the emerging design capitals of the world like Taipei, Prague and Jakarta as well as covering a stylish selection of furniture, interiors and retail stores.
WHY
As a creative it is important to gain inspiration from as many different artistic disciplines as possible. Farfetch has done the research, editing and neat packaging of the latest design inspirations in a digestible and engaging manner, ready for readers to pick up and be informed and simultaneously inspired.
WHAT ELSE
This book also explores the relationship between design and fashion with some of fashion’s high-flying creatives sharing their favourite inspiring hotels.
WHERE
Available at Farfetch.com. Official launch, 24 August.
JUST DOING IT
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WHAT
Selfies with my new 'fit' friends that go by the name of Nike.
MEN'S STYLE LINE-UP SPRING/SUMMER 2016
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WHAT
Anna VP's Men's Fashion Week SS/16 highlights.
WHO
Emporio Armani, Dunhill, Etro, Emporio Armani, Burberry Prorsum, Etro, Oliver Spencer, Etro, Oliver Spencer.
LEGO (WO)MEN
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WHO
Moschino, Autumn/Winter 2015.
A BUNCH OF DOLCE & GABBANA
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WHO
Dolce & Gabbana, Autumn/Winter 2015.
LONDON FASHION WEEK HIGHLIGHT AW15: GILES
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WHAT
Giles show, Autumn Winter 2015.
WHERE
The College, former Central St Martins campus.
LONDON FASHION WEEK HIGHLIGHT AW15: PETER PILOTTO
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WHAT
Peter Pilotto show, Autumn Winter 2015.
WHERE
The Sorting Office, New Oxford Street.
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK BLEND AW15
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WHO
(From left to right) Marc Jacobs, Victoria Beckham and Tom Ford.
WHERE
New York Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2015.
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK PATTERNS AW15
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WHO
(From left to right) Alexander Wang, Oscar de la Renta and Proenza Schouler.
WHERE
New York Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2015.
HORST EXHIBITION AT THE V&A
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WHAT
Exhibition about one the most distinguished fashion and portrait photographers of the 20th century, Horst P. Horst.
WHERE
Victoria and Albert Museum.
WHEN
Until 4 January 2014.
WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR
A bespoke silver cigarette lighter Coco Chanel made for Horst. On a visit to Chanel Horst had played with some putty that she used to make her costume jewellery, moulding it in his hands as they talked. After he left, she had it cast as cigarette lighter which was a unique fit to his grasp.
CHANEL SHOPPER
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WHAT
How to carry groceries, the chic way.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AT THE BARBICAN
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WHAT
The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibition.
WHERE
The Barbican, London.
WHEN
Until 26 August 2014.
TANYA LING SHOW IN PARIS
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WHAT
During Paris Fashion Week artist Tanya Ling exhibited her exciting new assemblage series comprising of dynamic 3D collages bursting out of plates. Amongst her new creations were a selection of her fashion illustrations which Tanya is world renowned and acclaimed for. See more of Tanya’s work at www.tanyaling.com.
WHERE
Rambert Rigaud Fleriste En Herbe in Paris. A florist owned by Rambert Rigaud, former studio head of Dior and Yves Saint Laurent.
CHANEL GOES WEST
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WHAT
Chanel’s pre Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Metiers d’Arts show in Dallas.
WHY
Chanel’s Metiers d’Arts shows are aimed at showcasing the unique craftsmanship of the ateliers that the House of Chanel has acquired and therefore preserved.
WHY ELSE
The unique setting and spectacle provides a new way for the brand to be experienced.
LONDON FASHION WEEK AW14 HIGHLIGHTS
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WHERE
Somerset House.
FASHION ILLUSTRATION GALLERY (FIG) AT CHRISTIE'S
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WHO
‘FIG represents many of the most important Fashion Illustrators working today including, Francois Berthoud, Jean-Philippe Delhomme, David Downton, Richard Gray, Tanya Ling, Jason Brooks, Gladys Perint Palmer and Marko Matysik. Between them these artists have made work for virtually every major international fashion magazine as well as a myriad of fashion businesses including Barneys, Selfridges, Louis Vuitton, Viktor & Rolf, Alexander McQueen, Chanel and Burberry.’ www.fashionillustrationgallery.com.
WHY
Owner, William Ling recognises fashion illustrations as original desirable artworks and brings them to a market for all. The mainly 20th and 21st century art form exists because magazines, luxury brands and department stores commission the illustrations. FIG gives access to these exclusive and desirable collectables.
QUOTES
Fashion illustrations are “also concerned about idea of beauty and are a form of social commentary; they tell us something about the way we were, are and want to be.” William Ling.
When posing for a photo shoot or drawing “the best models edit themselves”. David Downton.
SMILE WHEN YOU SEE CHANEL
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WHAT
Two satsumas, a banana and Chanel.
SLOANE STREET CHRISTMAS SHOPPING
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WHAT
Quintessentially British shopping experience on Sloane Street, with butlers providing concierge service to all shoppers.
WHEN
Until Saturday 14th December 2014 12-7pm.
TOM FORD
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WHAT
Sharp tailoring.
PAUL SMITH EXHIBITION AT THE DESIGN MUSEUM
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WHO
British fashion designer Sir Paul Smith.
WHAT
Inspiring insight into Paul Smith’s mind and world
Story of how his business grew from humble beginnings
Exhibits of collaborations in which Paul Smith has added his touch to an array of items from Leica cameras, Minis and John Lobb shoes
Display of Smith’s unique collection of pictures
Insight into how Smith’s successful business runs
And more…
WHERE
Design Museum, Shad Thames, London SE1 2YD.
LANVIN
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WHAT
Lanvin notebook.
PARIS FASHION WEEK SS14
WHAT
Fringe trend.
MILAN FASHION WEEK SS14
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WHAT
Embelishment trend.
LONDON FASHION WEEK SS14
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WHAT
Modern florals trend.
VISIT TO NEWSPAPER, LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY AT SOMERSET HOUSE
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WHO
Congratulations to the talented team for a 10th season of front row reporting
Editors Cat Callender and Marion Jones
Managing Editor Yasmin Coke
Web Editor and Production Co-Ordinator Niamh Connolly
Senior Reporters Heath Brown and David Hayes
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SS14
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WHAT
White on white trend.
MAISON MICHEL
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WHAT
Ears by Maison Michel, couture millinery. Handcrafted in the Paris atelier.
CHURCH'S FOOTPRINT
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WHO
Church’s, shoe manufacturer, founded in 1873, England.
HOW
It took approx 8 weeks to produce my pair of Church’s, undergoing over 250 detailed manual operations before leaving the factory and ending up on my feet.
‘The leather sole is cemented (glued) to the bottom of the shoe, attached under great pressure prior to sole stitching. The excess leather around the edge of the sole is then removed. The shoe is stitched together through the sole and welt. The edge of the sole is trimmed for a smooth and clean surface, then coloured, decorated, polished and stamped.’ Church & Co ltd.